A Timeless Italian Comfort: Nonna's Cacciatore Risotto

My grandmother’s risotto was always simple and she made it the same way every time.  It began with cacciatore sausage and she never made it without it. The sausage added a deep rustic flavor to the tomato and the chicken and it was the aroma that told you dinner was on the way.  If it was simmering on the stove, you could smell it long before you reached the kitchen.

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A little tip: Cacciatore sausage is firm and dense and you will need a very sharp knife to dice it.  It can feel almost like cutting a rock.  If your purveyor is willing to dice it for you, I highly recommend it.  It makes the cooking process much easier and the pieces stay much more uniform.

Like many Italian immigrants raising families in New York in the 1930s and 1940s, she cooked with what was available and practical.  Money was tight and imported ingredients were not easy to find.  She used Uncle Ben’s rice instead of Arborio and she used Muenster instead of Italian Fontina.  These were the ingredients she could afford and the recipe still tasted like home.

When I started making her risotto, I nudged it back toward the ingredients she would have used in Italy.  I kept every part of her method and her flavors and only replaced the Uncle Ben’s rice with Arborio and the Muenster cheese with Fontina.  The soul of the dish remains exactly as she made it.  This risotto never lasts long and there are usually not any leftovers.

History of Risotto

Risotto has deep roots in Northern Italy and each region has its own way of preparing it.  Lombardy is known for the rich and golden Risotto alla Milanese made with saffron.  Piedmont often adds local wines or mushrooms which give the dish an earthy and elegant character.  Veneto creates a softer style that leans almost toward a soup like consistency which suits the cooking traditions of the lagoon.

In the Parma area and especially in the mountain towns of Alto Val Taro, risotto tends to be hearty and comforting and it is often built on rich broths made from chicken or a mix of meats.  Cooks in this region rely on local ingredients such as Parmigiano Reggiano, mushrooms, and preserved sausages which give their risotti depth and warmth. 

Rice cultivation in the Po Valley dates back to the fifteenth century and it shaped how risotto evolved across the north.  Each region cooked with what it grew and each version reflects the landscape and the culture around it.  My grandmother’s risotto was shaped by her memories of Italy and by the realities of life as an immigrant.  My version tries to honor both.

Cacciatore & Pomodoro Risotto

(serves 4-6)

Ingredients:

• 2 Tbs. butter

• 1 medium onion, diced

• 225 g Cacciatore sausage (8 oz.)

• 450 g Arborio rice (450 g)

• 1 cup dry white wine

• 3 Tbs. tomato paste

• 1 15-oz. can crushed tomatoes

• 1.5 to 2 qts. chicken stock

• 140 g cooked chicken (5 oz.)

• salt & pepper q.b.

• 170 g Fontina cheese (6 oz.)

• Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

Instructions:

1. In a four quart pot, sauté the onion and the sausage in the butter until the onions are tender.  This should take about five minutes.

2. In a separate pot, heat the broth and keep it warm.

3. Add the rice to the onion and sausage mixture.  Sauté for another five minutes or until the rice begins to brown lightly.

4. Add the wine, the tomato paste, and the crushed tomatoes.  Reduce to a gentle simmer and cook while stirring until the liquid is almost completely absorbed.

5. Add the chicken and begin adding the warm broth about three quarters of a cup at a time.  Stir as it cooks and let each addition absorb almost completely before adding the next.  (Rabbit would be an amazing substitute for the chicken in this recipe.)

6. Continue adding warm broth until the rice is tender but still slightly al dente which means it has a little firmness left in the center.  This usually takes about 30 minutes.  If the risotto looks dry, add a little more broth.

7. Season with salt and pepper to taste.  

8. To serve, place a small amount of risotto in a bowl, top it with a some grated Fontina, spoon more risotto over the cheese, add some more Fontina on top, sprinkle with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.

Wine Pairing

Elvio Cogno Dolcetto d’Alba Mandorlo is a beautiful match for this risotto. It has bright cherry fruit, soft violet notes, and a clean finish that brings balance to the tomato, chicken, and cacciatore sausage. The wine has just enough lift to refresh the palate while allowing the richness of the broth and the Fontina cheese to shine.

History of Dolcetto

Dolcetto is one of the traditional red grapes of Piedmont and it has been part of the region’s wine culture for centuries. It grows mainly in the hills around Alba, Dogliani, and Ovada and it has long been the everyday wine for many families. While Nebbiolo became famous for Barolo and Barbaresco and Barbera found its place as a lively and versatile grape, Dolcetto remained the wine that people drank at the table.

The name Dolcetto means little sweet one, but the wine is not sweet at all. The grape has naturally low acidity and generous fruit which create a soft and approachable style that pairs well with many foods. It often shows flavors of cherry, plum, and violet and it is usually made to be enjoyed young while the fruit is still vibrant. The best versions find a balance of freshness and depth and offer a glimpse of the landscape and traditions that shaped them.

Dolcetto has stayed important in Piedmont because it reflects the daily life of the region. It is the wine families opened for simple meals and gatherings and it continues to hold that place today.

History of Elvio Cogno

The Cogno winery sits in the historic Ravera area of Barolo and the estate has deep roots in the traditional winemaking of Piedmont. Elvio Cogno spent many years as the winemaker at the legendary Marcarini estate in La Morra before deciding to create his own winery with the goal of producing wines that honored the classic character of the region. He believed that great wine begins in the vineyard and he devoted himself to expressing each varietal with clarity and a sense of place.

The estate became known for Barolo, but it also gained a reputation for elevating native grapes such as Dolcetto and Barbera. The Mandorlo Dolcetto d’Alba reflects this philosophy. It is crafted with care, harvested from carefully tended vines, and made in a style that highlights purity, elegance, and bright fruit rather than weight or power. Elvio Cogno wanted Dolcetto to be treated with the same respect as Barolo and his wines show how beautiful and expressive the grape can be.

Today the winery is guided by the same values. The focus remains on traditional methods, thoughtful vineyard work, and wines that reflect the heritage and landscape of Piedmont. The Mandorlo bottling continues to stand as one of the most graceful examples of Dolcetto produced in the region.

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